Shock life

[bov]

What kinda mileage you lot getting from the standard shock/ I've done 38k on the original shock ( 6 days a week , all weathers ) and, as far as I can tell, it's still OK But some reports say they can go in as little as 10k :shock: I've got a hugger but surely that wouldn't increase life by 4 fold would it :?:

[Ladybird]

Bov,

Bloody good question, I currently have original shock still at 32,000 mile - I have no doubt it should be one of the next things I consider - but I feel it's still good. So bollo I don't know the answer

[XXAndy]

I changed mine at about 40,000 miles, if I remember correctly

[bov]

But why did you change it Andy? Wot were the symptoms? Trust me...I'm a doctor :?

[Trident]

Bov,

With regard to the hugger helping the shock life, anything that helps keep moving parts clean and free from grit etc. is going to help with th life of the seals. This would include the hugger and regular cleaning.

As far as replacing the shock there are only three questions that need to be asked:

1/ Is it leaking or has it leaked in the past? If so, time for a new one.

2/ Does it prevent continued bouncing after hitting bump? If it doesn't it's knackered and you need a new one.

3/ Are you happy with the ride? If the answer is no, then you need a new one.

To help you answer question 3, if you can, find another XX and take it for a spin. If the back end feels better you might then consider a new shock or try adjusting yours. Many replacement shocks are available with lots of adjustments but proper set-up of these needs someone who knows exactly what they're doing and is dependent on may factors such as your weight, style of riding and the type of roads you ride on. What you feel confident on may be a totally different set-up to someone elses idea of perfection so really its only YOU that can decide whether you need a new shock assuming it's still mechanically intact.

[Shuggie]

On the setup of the shocker, MCN gave specs in June for the Blackbird.

These are: STOCK 10st 16st 2-up
Rear pre-load- 38mm thread wound down 38mm 41mm 45mm
Rear rebound- 1 turn from fully in 3/4turn 1 turn 1 1/4turns

These are apparently hybrid road/track settings, whatever the fook that means. :roll:

Any of you tech wizards that can enlighten me? :notworthy:

[bov]

Thanx Trident / Shuggie. From what you've said I guess my shock's fine :lol:

[TazCBR1100XX]

These are: STOCK 10st 16st 2-up
Rear pre-load- 38mm thread wound down 38mm 41mm 45mm
Rear rebound- 1 turn from fully in 3/4turn 1 turn 1 1/4turns

Yeah - this means fookin loads to me :?

Many replacement shocks are available with lots of adjustments but proper set-up of these needs someone who knows exactly what they're doing and is dependent on may factors such as your weight, style of riding and the type of roads you ride on

So what you're saying is that I have to change the shocker settings every time I travel a different road :? When you come to the Pie & Peas, take good note of the roads from Blyth Services to casa Taz, and let me know how the fook I will ever get a shocker to cope with the extremes you will travel upon :wink:

And for the record, I don't know what I'm doing when adjusting the thing at the bottom with a screwdriver, I don't even know what fookin Preload and Rebound does, but I do know that every time I get it feeling about right, I have to change the rear tyre and it all goes to shite again :roll:

[XXAndy]

I changed mine because the back enf felt 'soft' and used to bounce around all over the place. The front felt soft too so I put Hago progressive springs and 2.5 weight (yes 2.5) which improved the ride 1000%.

[Trident]

Simple answer Taz, you won't get your shocker set up to deal with all the road conditions you meet.

All you can do is set it up as best you can for the majority of conditions that you usually ride on. If most of your riding is over knackered, pot-holed roads, then your likely to need it set softer than someone who's everyday conditions are on billiard table smooth roads.

Same goes with changing the set-up for when you have a pillion on-board, unless you change it as and when the pillion is on the bike. Again the simple answer is to set the suspension up for the majority of your riding conditions.

The other alternative is to do what I do and leave it as it came out of the crate 'cause it seems to handle fine and any adjustments I make are sure to bugger it up.