The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

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The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Thu Sep 11, 2014 5:41 pm

Hi Guys,

Time for my anual break from caring for AJ, so I'm taking a few weeks to tour Austria and Northern Italy. Heading for the Alps that I have not done before, and the Dolomites that were recommended to me two years ago by a German biker couple.

I,m writing this while sipping a cool beer outside a small cafe with rooms, looking accross the valey admiring the South Tyrol scenery. This is my third night, but the first chance to post on the forum, as there is wifi. There was supposed to be internet available at the posh B&B last night at Oberamergau in S. Germany, but the signal was so weak, I could not connect. Of course I am boasting about it being a four star establishment because I only paid a fraction of the full rate. Looking like a poor farmer, has it's benefits. :roll)

To pick up from the very beginning. I was making good time for the Shuttle at Folkestone, before I hit a closed section of the M25 at Leatherhead. The BMW sat nav found a route round the lanes, but I still lost about 40 minutes. Thank goodness it was not a ferry I was catching. I must say Eurotunnel are very flexible whenever you are early or late. :clap:

So from leaving home, I did about 480 miles through Belgium and Germany until I came to Trittenheim on the Mosel. I thought this was the town I stayed at two years ago, but after driving around, it didn't look that familiar. Of course, it's very unlike me to get places muddled or make any kind of mistake :wink) . I chose one of a number of wine producers who offer B&B as well.

Yesterday I did about 330 miles riding in a SE direction, using a combination of autobahn and delightful B roads, as well as incorporating a section of my favourite B500 S of Baden Baden, finding a new way of avoiding the city itself. I think the 70 kph/ 40 mph signs have been erected since two years ago, not that any of the bikers take a blind bit of notice. :shock)

There were showers en route to Oberamergau, and today when I set off there was low cloud. As far as I understood the younger but just as curvy German Carol Kirkwood, I should head South today for any better weather. OK, I tell a lie, I just went by the weather symbols.

So after a brief stroll round Garmische- Partenkirken, I cut through Austria to the S Tyrol in Italy. This is my first time proper in Austria. I reached the boarder two years ago after doing the Stelvio Pass, but re-traced my steps to head for the Swiss boarder instead. What really strikes me about the Passes today is the amount of traffic compared to last year in Spain and Portugal which were deserted. On the roads that go through the numerous towns on the lower slopes, traffic is nose to tail. Italian bikers ignore the no-overtaking lines. duh

This afternoon, I did the SS44 Passo del Rombo, N of Merano. It was sunny and warm, 24 degrees, in that town, but as I reached the 2500m summit, the temperature had dropped to 2C, and the rain had turned to sleet/snow. It was not my intention of paying the quite steep toll to get back into Austria, so I gladly turned round and found these digs in the first little town back on the Italian side.

I think the weather for the weekend is closing in ( from what I understand, you have had better weather back home ). If it's not too bad tomorrow, I may well head East to Cortina ( strange they should name a place after a car ) and the start of the Dolomites ( there again, you would think the mountains were slightly older than the Triumph I used to have.)

That's it for now folks.

Regards,

Chris
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby T.Murphy aka Tim » Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:44 pm

As ever, "nice one Chris". look forward to your progress report and not forgetting the photos of course. :clap:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby smileymiley » Thu Sep 11, 2014 6:53 pm

Excellent Chris :thumbsup)
Ro Ro's just read it and wants to be there 8)
Pics please as soon as you can :clap:
Have a great and safe trip :notworthy) :ride)
Cheers

Miles

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I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Simmo » Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:11 pm

Nice Chris keep it coming :thumbsup) :thumbsup)



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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Thu Sep 11, 2014 7:13 pm

smileymiley wrote:Excellent Chris :thumbsup)
Ro Ro's just read it and wants to be there 8)
Pics please as soon as you can :clap:
Have a great and safe trip :notworthy) :ride)



Hi Miles,

Send RoRo over. I'll look after her :wink)

Haven't taken a single shot yet. Nothing significantly different from what I have taken or posted before.

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby TRIPPO » Thu Sep 11, 2014 10:24 pm

Glad to know you're having a good time pal :thumbsup)


Can't wait for the pics :notworthy)


Just the scenery though.......
Don't want the fooookin panzer ruining them :mrgreen: lol
There,s only one good ride!!!!!
One that you return home safely from!!!!! Make sure you do!!!!!
Casualty is full of people who thought they new better


Regards John

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby aj » Thu Sep 11, 2014 11:46 pm

.

oi....hadn't noticed the care package :P ... usually me running around after you...and getting you out of a fix... :mrgreen:
does this mean that when you get back you'll be wanting to move in... jawdropping jawdropping jawdropping

regards
aj duh


.... enjoy yer trip.... 8)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby smileymiley » Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:10 am

aj wrote:.

oi....hadn't noticed the care package :P ... usually me running around after you...and getting you out of a fix... :mrgreen:
does this mean that when you get back you'll be wanting to move in... jawdropping jawdropping jawdropping

regards
aj duh


.... enjoy yer trip.... 8)


Blimey a post in readable English :P
Cheers

Miles

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I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby TRIPPO » Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:27 am

Some fooooka must have typed it for him Miles lol lol lol
There,s only one good ride!!!!!
One that you return home safely from!!!!! Make sure you do!!!!!
Casualty is full of people who thought they new better


Regards John

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Fri Sep 12, 2014 8:28 pm

Direction of travel today was determined by the forecast. Anything other than SE was definately

going to be wet. So decided to head for Lake Garda, which I had not seen two years ago.

From my little hostel in Moos, N of Merano, I took the Jaufenpass slightly northwards, before

heading S again on the Penserjoch pass. Officially in Italy, the local affinity is very much

Austrian/German. What looked like mini ski lifts across the valley, were actually for steel

milk churns of I guess 150 litre capacity.

At the 2215m summit of the Penserjoch, there was a little sleet in the air again, so I was glad

to be decending and heading S. On reaching Bolzano, it had climbed to 24C in the full sun. The

hillsides of this whole region above 3500ft are covered with apple plantations, with the

harvest in full swing.

Following a recommendation from alpineroads.com, I then took the Mendel Pass that certainly

lived up to its billing. The serface was smooth and grippy, and the wider lower bends could be

taken in 2nd or 3rd. I must admit that after all my alpine experience, I now favour the less

extreme passes, that can be taken at higher speed. The higher ones, with stacks of first gear

hairpins are a bit of a chore, especially on the Panzer where the gearbox is recalcitrant,

changing gear begrudgingly. The ascent from Bolzano was the best bit. The decent was not such

good riding, passing through the villages. The smaller passes today have not been so busy,

except for other bikers, but they dont count.

The view overlooking Lake Garda from the mountain was spectacular. In order to get a close up view of the water, I pretended to be interested in the price of an expensive hotel, just so I could step outside for a few shots for you. I would have liked to ride the Panzer through Reception and the bar, just so I could annoy Trippo with a pic of the GS with the windsurfers.

Going back to what I said last night about Italian motorcyclists overtaking on white lines. Nearly collected one today. Following a line of traffic doing about 40 mph with a no overtaking line. Had a white van fairly close behind filling my mirror. I moved a little to my left in order to take a right hander, only to be confronted with a bike wizzing past the queue of traffic.

Just had a very good dinner at the hotel up in the mountains W of Rovereto. Spagetti bolognaise starter but made with venison, followed by veal and profiterols. Had a venison stew at Oberamergau, but that lacked seasoning. I'm sure AJ would agree with me on this; a little salt, pepper and vinegar brings out the flavour.

It just started to rain as I found this hotel, and is still raining now. I want to start touring the Dolomites tomorrow and find a base in or near Cortina, but we'll see what the forecast holds.

Fri_3.JPG
view from the hotel in Moos


Fri_5.JPG


Fri_6.JPG


Fri_7.JPG
Lake Garda


Fri_8.JPG


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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby John H » Fri Sep 12, 2014 9:59 pm

Off for a 'few weeks' :thumbsup) .... what a luxury. great trip report :ride) , keep it going :thumbsup)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby T.Murphy aka Tim » Fri Sep 12, 2014 10:59 pm

I'm enjoying this Extremist. keep it coming dear boy ! :thumbsup)


( I must say though that the pics....if you close your eyes just ever so slightly, could be easily mistaken for parts of Wales..... :mrgreen: )
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Fri Sep 12, 2014 11:11 pm

T.Murphy wrote:

( I must say though that the pics....if you close your eyes just ever so slightly, could be easily mistaken for parts of Wales..... :mrgreen: )


You're right Tim. Could easily be the Llanberis pass at 7300 feet :evil)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:27 pm

OK, just a short one tonight, as there doesn't seem to be much feedback.

Plans to do the Passo di Brocon thwarted by a rally, closing the top section. Hung on an hour and a half, hoping for road to re-open, but no joy.

Now in the Dolomites, and their rugged/bare/white appearance is very similar to the Picos de Europa in N Spain. Now encamped just outside Cortina, Venison stew again tonight, and it was superb.

Sat_1.JPG


Sat_2.JPG
One specially for you Trippo


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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby T.Murphy aka Tim » Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:38 pm

Nice one Chris. Bike running OK?

Weather today?

Gonna peruse the maps for your area tonight....where to next? :ride)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sat Sep 13, 2014 8:54 pm

Hi Tim,

Yes, apart from unco-operative gearbox, bike going well. Italian bikers ride in very close formation, almost wheel to wheel. No biker etiquette either. I indicated to overtake a car on a short straight, and they whizzed past anyway.

Weather today ok, until I hit the tops of the passes where the low cloud was hanging - see pic.

Very much going by recommendations from alpineroads.com, which have served well before, Tomorrow plan to do the Gardena and Sella passes plus others. Have booked B&B for 2 nights, so for first time will be able to leave the panniers behind, and keep up with those Italian b.....s.

Chris
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:16 pm

:thumbsup) I'm hooked Chris keep them coming! sorry to hear about the gearbox gremlins (Shoulda bought a TDM ) meanwhile back here in Blighty I'm off on a "hush hush run" tomorrow, and in true hush hush fashion I'll mention the destination "St Abbs bay on the east coast, but refrain from mentioning the meeting place and time? :-? :mrgreen:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sat Sep 13, 2014 9:36 pm

Hi jono,

I'll meet you at the layby with the burger van at 9 am if that suits.

Regards,

Chris
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby aj » Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:25 pm

.

oi... don't you dare let them eyetyes get the betterer of you.... :twisted)

specialy after all that friggin training i've given you... lol

regards
aj :mrgreen:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sat Sep 13, 2014 10:36 pm

aj wrote:.

specialy after all that friggin training i've given you... lol



Like not using your mirrors :mrgreen:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Simmo » Sun Sep 14, 2014 1:09 am

Keep it coming Chris we do enjoy your tales :thumbsup)

Try taking the bird instead of the Gs you'll fly past them fookiing Italians lol
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby bluegas » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:14 am

Keep it up, enjoying this! Even a hint of Keith Floyd in the mix :thumbsup)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Oldbull » Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:03 am

Enjoy it Chris, lm enjoying the read as well mate and keep the pics comming :thumbsup) :ride)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Oldbull » Sun Sep 14, 2014 11:41 am

jono49 wrote: ) meanwhile back here in Blighty I'm off on a "hush hush run" tomorrow, and in true hush hush fashion I'll mention the destination "St Abbs bay on the east coast, but refrain from mentioning the meeting place and time? :-? :mrgreen:


Should have been a text :roll)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 14, 2014 10:53 pm

Wow, what a day I have had criss-crossing the Dolomites around Cortina. Starting at 0930 and finishing at 7.30 pm, with only a half hour stop for lunch, and time to take photos. 240 miles covering most of the different types of alpine road; fast sweeping routes following the valley bottom, through narrow gorges, over high alps plateaux, and up and down the passes of varying complexity. Surfaces range from fresh tarmac to the uneven, broken and subsided.

Starting with some of the minor passes going Westwards from Cortina, then finishing with some of the best - di Giau, di Sella, di Gardina and di Valperola. I rank these highly for the combination of riding enjoyment, surface condition, fantastic views on the way up and at the summit, and lastly the proximity to the sheer cliffs of the peaks. Others worthy of mention were Cibiana, Staulanza, and del Pura.


Again, lucky with the weather. Started bright, clouded a bit, then came out sunny again. But by 6 pm, it was dark and moody as you will see from the pics, with strong shafts of sunlight highlighting a peak or a town in the bottom of the valley. Quite dramatic.

Apart from a GB portapotty the third day, I have not seen another Brit biker. Afraid I only know a few Italian words, but getting away with a smattering of German, and the fact that most hoteliers know the English essentials.

Back home, it's years since I had a pizza. But while I'm here though I had better try a proper one with a porchini and speck topping. Speck is a Tyrolean smoked ham. All along the route, cars have been parked at the edge of the forests, while the locals go mushroom foraging; hence the fresh porchini. Returning to the meal, my attention was somewhat drawn to a nearby table of six milfs, obviously celebrating one the their number's birthday.

All the ixxra foresters out there will be interested to know that I have only seen one very small example of clear felling. The mature fir and spruce trunks are selectively felled for the huge timber industry in these parts.

Sat_3.JPG
Dinner


Sun_1.JPG


Sun_2.JPG


Sun_3.JPG


Sun_4.JPG


Sun_5.JPG


Sun_6.JPG


Sun_7.JPG


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