The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sat Sep 20, 2014 8:47 pm

Fri 19th

You wont be surprised that I did the Nockalmstrasse again this

morning. The cloud lifted early, so this time I rode it in full sun.

Only a little traffic this time, mostly coming the other way from the

southern entrance.

From there to the Villacher alpen strasse, a similar toll road, but

thankfully free with the local discount card from the hotel. Only a

tad less good than the Nockalm, but there is an almost 360 degree

panorama from the top. Unfortunately, it was very hazy, so pics not

that good.

Then cut eastwards, along with other bikers, to pick up the B69. Just

getting into the swing with alternating left right 3 rd gear curves,

when the dreaded Umleitung signs appeared. We were directed some miles

on a single lane forest track, just like the ones aj finds on his

mystery tours of Wales. I was ok on the GS, but pity the poor guys on

sports bikes.

After that, I headed S over a pass into Slovenia for the first time.

Did not look vastly different in prosperity than Austria. Not as stark

a difference as Italy and Austria.

Roads I chose were on the edge of the Michelin map of Austria, on

which I have been relying. They could have been quite good to ride,

but traffic was heavy. My old Garmin 550 showed nothing beyond the

Austrian boarder. Fortunately, the new one is more new Euro superstate

minded, and shows just as much detail as home.

Went through few light industrial towns, before getting into the hills

and forest. Asked the price of the first 3 star hotel I found, only to

learn B&B was higher than the half board I had been paying in Austria.
Set a route on the sat nav that would take me back to Austria on a

circular route, if I did not see an attractive hotel or B&B. There are

any number of the latter in Germany and Austria, but I was beginning

to dispair of seeing one, when I saw a sign. So I am overnighting at a

small farm B&B in the hills about 30 miles within the country. No internet of course.


The only downside was having to get back on the GS to have a very good

dinner in a restaurant 2 miles away. Sadly the wild boar on the menu

was not available, but I had a very tasty cheesy meat dish instead.

Fri_1.JPG
Slovenian farm


Fri_2.JPG
Achtung Kinder! You know my views on kids, but these were quite cute


Fri_3.JPG


Fri_4.JPG


Sat 20th

After a walk down the lane, and a chat with the grandfather about the

size of the farm, and the bad vine crop ( disease, and lack of sun ),

I set off for Austria again. There were a few roadside hotels, and a

couple of B&Bs on the way so I would not have been stuck last night,

but I'm glad I stayed where I did.

with less traffic, some of the riding was quite good. On the flatter

land, there were small plots of hops, but most had been picked.

My route brought me out onto the B69 again. Always good to do a 69

from head to tail. Turns out, it's a bit of a tour route for bikers

and car clubs alike. Good choice of hotels, and B&B, which were to

elude me later in the day.

The rest of the morning was spent having fun ( with local weekend

bikers) on the hilly roads that form a figure of eight centering on

Twimberg. Some of the best riding I have had, so it shows mountains

are not always necessary, although one of the 'hills' peaked at just

over 6000 feet.

My enjoyment would have continued, had it not been for light/medium

rain for an hour and a half. But since that is the first significant

precipitation I have had in eleven days, I can't complain.

It dried up again for full enjoyment of the roads in the Tauern

region. Some really nice 4th and 5 th gear sweepers up and down the

hills.

As I intimated earlier, there wasn't a great choice in accommodation.

The sixth place I looked at and asked the price, was a wood cabin kind

of place, with a central function room and restaurant, popular with 20

somethings partying. So you can see how well I fit in here. :rolleyes:

Chris
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Sat Sep 20, 2014 10:31 pm

Another cracking travelogue Chris :notworthy) :notworthy) :notworthy) and another tractor pic sneaked in! and Slovenia looks nice :thumbsup)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 21, 2014 7:46 am

Jono,

Don't get me started on tractors. I could fill a whole new thread on what i have seen.

For instance, where I was staying in Slovenia, there was a 40 year old tractor with a V twin diesel two stroke, just like the old Commer lories. Would have loved to hear it running.

Also many of the Eastern bloc IMT copies of the MF135 and older forerunner, the 35.

And I didn't know that Class are making a round baler with integral wrapper.

Fri_1.JPG


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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby TRIPPO » Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:04 am

Brilliant write up Chris :notworthy)
All these tractors. ......no wonder you like the GS lol
There,s only one good ride!!!!!
One that you return home safely from!!!!! Make sure you do!!!!!
Casualty is full of people who thought they new better


Regards John

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:30 pm

I focused on the minor mountainous and forested area centered around Mariazell, which is about 50 miles N of Graz.

Would have been another super riding day on great roads, had it not been for the heavy rain showers. Found that even if a road did not have a green boarder on the Michelin map, it was still good to ride. Some of the best followed a river in a valley bottom, or down a steep gorge. It's no wonder this whole area is popular with local bikers.

just had venison again for dinner; filet in a rich sauce with a light dumpling and red cabbage. And that is in a very ordinary little inn. Why is it that game and venison in particular is commonly available here, yet it is the preserve of mainly the wealthy back home, eating in the top notch restaurants? Is it because the supermarkets have brainwashed us into eating pap like pizza and fish fingers?

Most of the petrol stations in town here are manned on a Sunday, whereas in Italy they were self service only. That would not be a problem if the machines read our credit cards, but they invariably threw a wobbly and rejected. So a tip if you intend to travel in Italy on a Sunday - make sure you have banknotes for fuel.

Sun_2.JPG


Sun_3.JPG


Sun_4.JPG


Sun_5.JPG
Mariazell 1


Sun_1.JPG
Mariazell 2


Sun_6.JPG
All your Christmas prezzies from me - now sorted


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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby smileymiley » Sun Sep 21, 2014 9:49 pm

Great write ups as usual Chris :thumbsup) & superb photos 8) :clap:
Ro Ro wants to know is there a Ryanair flight somewhere nearby & can you pick her up from the airport? :-? :P
lol
Cheers

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I came, I saw, I stuck around.
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 21, 2014 10:00 pm

smileymiley wrote:Ro Ro wants to know is there a Ryanair flight somewhere nearby & can you pick her up from the airport? :-? :P
lol


Yes Miles, I can pick her up from Vienna tomorrow :thumbsup)

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Sun Sep 21, 2014 11:02 pm

What's the story with the M.A.N. Tractor??? :-?
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 21, 2014 11:27 pm

jono49 wrote:What's the story with the M.A.N. Tractor??? :-?


Well, no story about that one. It just happened to be at the timber cabin resort hotel last night.

Saw a very similar Fendt one earlier that day, inside the dealer's showroom.

Have been looking out for MB Tracs, as I'm interested in one for myself.
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:03 pm

Tonight, I am in the Wachau district W of Vienna, right on the Danube. It's another wine growing region, though I haven't sampled any yet. They say August was very wet, so they are not expecting a great harvest.

I've been putting it off during the whole trip, but tonight it had to be done. Yes, I'm talking Wiener schnitzel. A good portion it was too, served with a nice mixed salad with a vinegar dressing that would have been too much for aj. So to round it off, it had to be apfelstrudel.

So I figured a dose of culture was called for today, with a visit to Vienna. I picked a good country route as far as I could, but the last twelve miles were a drag, made worse by a very heavy shower.

With my love of classical music and all things Baroque, I was greatly looking forward to seeing the capital. But it left me underwhelmed. Compared with Madrid and Seville which were expansive with tree lined boulevards, Wien seemed a bit clostrophobic, and just as traffic conjested as London. Oh, and there were too many tourists!

I have been very kind to you. Two thirds into my tour, and I haven't inflicted a cathedral photo on you yet. Well, here are two. To reinforce my previous point, the cathedral was hemmed in by 20th century buildings, it had lost its authority.

Vienna_1.JPG


Vienna_2.JPG



The old royal palaces were good though. I only walked the exteriors, but they were impressive. And being a huge fan of the New Year's day concert, I had long wanted to see the Musikverein.

You can see from the photos how oppressive the sky was. Every couple of hours, there was a heavy downpour.

Vienna_3.JPG
Belvedere Palace


Vienna_7.JPG
Schonbrunn Palace


Vienna_5.JPG
"If you don't get your hand off my tit, I'll swat you!"


Vienna_4.JPG
Schonbrunn 2


Vienna_8.JPG
"This bowl is friggin heavy. How much longer have I got to stand like this?"


Vienna delic_1.JPG
I'm in 7th heaven



I had kept my options open, whether or not to stay in the city overnight. But following my opinion above, a good hike round the Schonbrunn Palace, I felt it was time to leave. I briefly toyed with the idea of heading E to Slovakia, to tick off another country, but that would have meant mixing it was the traffic in the centre of the city again. So headed off W, which is where I started this story.

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby T.Murphy aka Tim » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:31 pm

Briil Extremist. I'm thoroughly enjoying every episode . :clap:

Nice to see the tractors and buildings and bridges and cakes and tractors and mountains and dolls and statues and clouds and tractors but WHERE THE FOOK ARE THE MILFS ? :banghead)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:12 pm

T.Murphy wrote: WHERE THE FOOK ARE THE MILFS ? :banghead)


Some came out of the church service in Mariazell yesterday, dressed in traditional costume. I should have asked to take their photos.

There was also a particularly tasty blonde waitress. I should have brought my Nikon with long lens. The one I've got isn't long enough - lens I mean. :oops)

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Mon Sep 22, 2014 11:26 pm

TRIPPO wrote:All these tractors. ......no wonder you like the GS lol


I zeroed it at the beginning of the trip, and now the bike is showing 60 mpg, after going up and down the mountains mainly with the panniers.

That compares with 57 last year doing the same kind of touring. It has just turned over 10k miles, and I think the extra revving between hairpins to save gear changing has loosened the motor out even more.

Because I had it showing fuel range, I missed it turning 10000. Call me strange if you like, but I've always had a facination for the figures ticking over. Ever since I had my first digital watch at school, and I used to wait for 3.33 and 33 seconds to break the tedium of a double Maths lesson on a Friday afternoon. :banghead)

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:14 pm

:thumbsup) Keep em coming Chris.........with some MILF pics please.....any nationality will do! 8)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby barsteward » Tue Sep 23, 2014 8:43 pm

jono49 wrote::thumbsup) Keep em coming Chris.........with some MILF pics please.....any nationality will do! 8)


Any gender would do as far as your concerned. Yer great porridge dipper :mrgreen:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Tue Sep 23, 2014 9:30 pm

When I think of MILF's I think of..........................

Titty Sprinkles.jpg
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:15 pm

Tues 23rd

Shortly after I set off in the morning, the rain started and pissisted until about 1.30 pm. It was also only 8 C.

I still did some minor roads from Grein on the Danube that were rated as silver and gold (by alpineroads), though not at the pace I would have liked in the wet.

Although my textile gear was not letting in the water ( I re-proofed it prior to the trip ), I was going to dive into a hotel for the rest of the day, if the rain continued.

But it stopped, so I decided to head N and do a bit of Czech Republic that still showed on my Michelin Austria map. I chose a small road that ran 70 odd miles along a river that became a dam and reservoir. What a corker it was. Tim for once was nearly right, in that it could have been a best road in Wales or the Forest of Dean, except that the houses were different, and the road surface was either good or excellent. The eastern end had become a hiking/sailing/tennis etc resort area with some very new hotels and roadside inns. Had it not not been just 3 pm, I certainly would have stayed the night.

I ended up in former East Germany, and wanted to stay the night at a little inn that specialized in game, but they wouldn't drop their price of a room, so I found another in a B&B a couple of miles away. It meant I had to use the bike again, but the wild boar in mushroom sauce was worth it.

Wed 24

The sun shone as I mounted the GS, and continued all day. Though it has turned a bit Autumnal, the temp only climbing to 15 C, but bear in mind I am at 2 - 3,000 feet.

I headed back S to catch up with the mountains again. But even the small country roads linking the villages in Germany and Austria are a delight. Unless you live in Lincolnshire, one just isn't used to the open roads with mown verges and no hedges or fences.

The route I chose took me round the three lakes E of Salzberg. A B road between Seefeld and Altmunster up and over the hill was sublime, with nothing more difficult than a 2nd gear bend or two.

The B166 towards Bischofshofen was another cracker, but it lead me to the B99 where I had been caught up in three sets of roadworks about a week ago.

To make up, the pass going N from B'fen was fast. From Hallein, I cut across the boarder on a little mountain road especially to visit Adolf's weekend retreat at Berchtesgaden. It's been turned into a hotel and restaurant now. I stopped in for a snack - Goebbels on toast mit Eva Braun sauce.

I'm now back in the Tirol mountains, E of Innsbruck, looking out at some stunning scenery.

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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Simmo » Wed Sep 24, 2014 8:30 pm

Quality :thumbsup) :thumbsup) :thumbsup) :thumbsup) :thumbsup) :thumbsup)
Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby Oldbull » Thu Sep 25, 2014 8:13 pm

Fantastic Chris ... Cannot get the full pics as ive only got my fone as im away also.... Keep em comming mate and i dont mean the milfs... Dont take any notice of the uncouthed illiterate swines .... We want culture and tractors.....
NB we got rain in spaln as well mate if its any consolation ... Keep em cumming pal :thumbsup)
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Thu Sep 25, 2014 10:13 pm

The main valley road westwards through Innsbruck was a drag, the only compensation being the mountains either side to admire. Had my autobahn vignette not expired, I would gladly have taken that route.

My aim for the day was to get back to Germany. But I allowed myself a bit of a play on the Timmelsjoch pass first, as far as the toll booth.
This tied up nicely with the fact that I had done the same on my third day from the Italian side. So without any planning, it squared the circle of my trip.

I thought that would be the last of the alpine passes for this tour, but my route N and W took me over a couple of excellent passes from St Anton to Bregenz.

From the Michelin map, I picked the little town of Heiligenberg to aim for, just because it was on a green route. Again, I came through a region N of the Bodensee that specialized in apple growing.

Just before the town, I did spot an attractive 18 century timber hostelry, but they were full. In the town, I found a small inn that served game. There was the choice of roe or fallow deer, wild boar or pheasant. However, I plumped for my favourite - hare. Don't get me wrong, I love to see them on the farm, and unlike the rabbits, I won't shoot them. But when they are given to me or on a menu, I do enjoy the richness of the lean meat.

WedThur_1.JPG
One from yesterday


tirol girl.jpg
The maidschen who served me Goebells on toast. Sweet dreams Tim


german-granny.jpg
And one for Les
german-granny.jpg (91.09 KiB) Viewed 2134 times


WedThur_2.JPG
View from my hotel this morning


WedThur_3.JPG
Someone must have told them I was coming


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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Thu Sep 25, 2014 11:07 pm

And we thought we were blessed with top drawer views in the Highlands :| this is top drawer stuff :notworthy) :notworthy) :notworthy) thanks again Chris :thumbsup)
P.S. when you get back to blighty, you might consider starting a dating agency.......well you got Les's match right for a start :mrgreen:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby XXtremist » Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:21 am

Sorry, tried to post this last night, but the site was down. :banghead)

Fri 26th

I let the Garmin do pretty well its own thing, taking me NW into

France. The more I am seeing of Southern Germany, the more I like it.
There are super little country roads linking the villages, and they

are most attractive with combined half timbered farmhouses and barns

that must date from the 1700s.

There was a fantastic road that climbed to the top of the hill

overlooking the Rhine basin, just like the 483 to Newtown. Just as I

was getting into the swing, up popped the 'road closed' barrier with

the dreaded Umleightung. Anyway, this diversion wasn't so bad, as it

was a smaller but even more twisty route through a forest. Then it

descended steeply to the basin in a series of hairpins through the

trees.

I then turned northwards in France following the River Meuse, which I

had done three years back, forgetting that you go through sleepy

little agricultural towns, with very few hotels.

Anyway, I found one in the end in St Mihel, and complained bitterly

when just the room ( without breakfast ) was more than I had been

paying half board in Italy and Austria.

France is rapidly falling out of favour with me because of the poor

value, and I am falling in love with Bavaria.

Sat 27th

So without a hotel breakfast, I headed into town. Despite it only

being a one-horse town, there was a gorgeous artisan pattiserie

establishment that could rival those in Paris.

FriSat_1.JPG
Yum!


FriSat_2.JPG
Forget meat pies, real bikers go for a triple chocolate gateau



Sadly I could not stay all day pandering to my sweet tooth. I set off

N again following the Meurse to Verdun and Sedan. I thought I might

get slightly better value in Belgium. My new sat nav is far better at

showing accommodation possiblities in a town than the old 550, but I

spotted a farm B&B sign that was not listed. I am paying roughly what

I paid last night, but breakfast is included. Looking at the hens

below my window, there should be some free range eggs for brekkie.

Its a mixed dairy and arable farm. They are busy getting the potatoe

harvest in, but will only get about a third of the price expected as

there will be a glut, and exports to Russia have stopped.

Catching the Tunnel shuttle tomorrow at midday. I will give my

conclusions of this tour after I get back.
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby jono49 » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:11 am

Oh those cakes :P
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby T.Murphy aka Tim » Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:44 am

Fab Chris. Enjoyed every mile of this one thanks. :clap:
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Re: The hills are alive with the sound of..........my Panzer

Postby barsteward » Sun Sep 28, 2014 2:38 pm

XXtremist wrote:The main valley road westwards through Innsbruck was a drag, the only compensation being the mountains either side to admire. Had my autobahn vignette not expired, I would gladly have taken that route.

My aim for the day was to get back to Germany. But I allowed myself a bit of a play on the Timmelsjoch pass first, as far as the toll booth.
This tied up nicely with the fact that I had done the same on my third day from the Italian side. So without any planning, it squared the circle of my trip.

I thought that would be the last of the alpine passes for this tour, but my route N and W took me over a couple of excellent passes from St Anton to Bregenz.

From the Michelin map, I picked the little town of Heiligenberg to aim for, just because it was on a green route. Again, I came through a region N of the Bodensee that specialized in apple growing.

Just before the town, I did spot an attractive 18 century timber hostelry, but they were full. In the town, I found a small inn that served game. There was the choice of roe or fallow deer, wild boar or pheasant. However, I plumped for my favourite - hare. Don't get me wrong, I love to see them on the farm, and unlike the rabbits, I won't shoot them. But when they are given to me or on a menu, I do enjoy the richness of the lean meat.

WedThur_1.JPG


tirol girl.jpg


german-granny.jpg


WedThur_2.JPG


WedThur_3.JPG


Chris


lol @Chris....hope you got me her mobile for next time I'm over :thumbsup) Now all I need Is reassurance that they've got "Butty Vans" over there.... Can't do without me Bacon sarnie from a greasy spoon on a morning. :wink)
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