IXXRA......The Home Of The Superblackbird

Very impressive Murphy. You could've put some underfloor heating in the screed for added luxury, I've just chucked a load of coils away!

T.Murphy wrote:

Simmo wrote:Nice job , but worried when I saw the pitch of the roof , so agood job you don't have real tiles on or the pitch would be to shallow

Yea, took a while finding a lightweight roof covering that wasn't "wriggly tin" type. This stuff is about 5 or 6 times lighter than standard tiles and I have beefed up the timber structurally.

Tim I have a concrete section single garage at home and a concrete section quadruple (size of 4 singles +) at work (lockup).

I purchased the coated Tin wall sections off cuts, when they were building the new B&Q , most of them were about 2.4 - 3m so they worked a treat and I got them at scrap value ... had enough to do both garages

The only problem you will get with tin tile roof and tin section like mine is condensation. It will cling to the roof like fook.
I used the pollystyrene sheet that you put under screed floors to lag it with. Unless you are putting a ceiling and loft in yours you will definitely need something,
personally Id lag up to the tiles either way.

summat like these http://www.globepackaging.co.uk/12-x-sh ... etwork=pla

two summers ago I decided to build another smaller shed at home... This time I did it out of blockwork and put a marine ply roof on it and covered with torch felt,
also went the whole hog and put double glazed door and window in it (mis measures )and its way better (dryer) than the Tin roof.. My next one will be single brick and ply and felt roof... hindsight for ya pal

Oldbull wrote:

T.Murphy wrote:

Simmo wrote:Nice job , but worried when I saw the pitch of the roof , so agood job you don't have real tiles on or the pitch would be to shallow

Yea, took a while finding a lightweight roof covering that wasn't "wriggly tin" type. This stuff is about 5 or 6 times lighter than standard tiles and I have beefed up the timber structurally.

Tim I have a concrete section single garage at home and a concrete section quadruple (size of 4 singles +) at work (lockup).

I purchased the coated Tin wall sections off cuts, when they were building the new B&Q , most of them were about 2.4 - 3m so they worked a treat and I got them at scrap value ... had enough to do both garages

The only problem you will get with tin tile roof and tin section like mine is condensation. It will cling to the roof like fook.
I used the pollystyrene sheet that you put under screed floors to lag it with. Unless you are putting a ceiling and loft in yours you will definitely need something,
personally Id lag up to the tiles either way.

summat like these http://www.globepackaging.co.uk/12-x-sh ... etwork=pla

two summers ago I decided to build another smaller shed at home... This time I did it out of blockwork and put a marine ply roof on it and covered with torch felt,
also went the whole hog and put double glazed door and window in it (mis measures )and its way better (dryer) than the Tin roof.. My next one will be single brick and ply and felt roof... hindsight for ya pal

shed2.jpg

Cheers Dave. Hoping to avoid the dreaded condensation from the steel roof as I've covered the frame with triple layered membrane first. The walls are totally covered with shets of 50mm Kingspan and I intend to do likewise between the rafters.

Bluegas......had thought about underfloor heating but a bit OTT and She had already said no to me taking a feed from my central heating when I layed underground supplies from the house

T.Murphy wrote:Bluegas......had thought about underfloor heating but a bit OTT and She had already said no to me taking a feed from my central heating when I layed underground supplies from the house

Been thinking about the new modern log burners myself ... not ideal if theres fuel around but needs must

Good idea Dave


ya can always syphon a bit petrol from thee to get the fire going







make sure ya keep the Fire and theft cover

Ive got an old parkray coalmaster boiler in the lock up...
had an old 10" steel water pipe off the railway as a flue

Not efficient with wood tho, smoked tooo much.

burnt coke on it with no probs, never left it in overnight tho..


I would go with one of the new log burners if I had to do it all again ...

Laminate flooring shop/unit in worksop has one... burns all his off cuts etc etc on it ..

MOT place up Kettles yard got an open fire in corner ... I kid you not

How many boilers are fitted in garages nowdays .... gas flame enclosed behind glass door ... same difference

Oldbull wrote:Ive got an old parkray coalmaster boiler in the lock up...
had an old 10" steel water pipe off the railway as a flue

Not efficient with wood tho, smoked tooo much.

burnt coke on it with no probs, never left it in overnight tho..


I would go with one of the new log burners if I had to do it all again ...

Laminate flooring shop/unit in worksop has one... burns all his off cuts etc etc on it ..

MOT place up Kettles yard got an open fire in corner ... I kid you not

How many boilers are fitted in garages nowdays .... gas flame enclosed behind glass door ... same difference

Like ya thinking and had toyed with one but enough is enough. I know for a fact if I had a log burner in there I wouldn't ever never come out and go into the house....... 'Cept for a baa baa of course.

Fekk me , cutting it fine or what.

To say how long I have fekked about deciding how to "do" my roof, what materials to use and actually biting the bullet and doing the fekkin job, I finally brought my bikes in from the cold just, yes JUST as it started snowing last night. By fook that was close.




Nowt like living life teetering on the edge all the time is there

..

needs some hot air in there tim....you camping out with yer bikes i take it...

regards
aj


looks very nice my old son...

kin el 1" of snow and that 0.3mm thick roof sheets bending


bikes might be better off outside

50 Sheds of grey all over again






Starring a titanium Blackbird

Now ya see it

















Now ya don't







I'm getting there.

Couldn't you make the pit fit the lift then ! Just a little rebate in the shuttering for the handles JD



Very nice though

yep... lot of work gone into it, bit too much with the floor depth tho pal but coming together nicely


can remember digging a pit for a mate years ago, everyone wanted one in them days... six months later the fookin thing had filled up with water seeping in

Simmo wrote:Couldn't you make the pit fit the lift then ! Just a little rebate in the shuttering for the handles JD



Very nice though

No. had to be that wide to accommodate the foot pump hydraulic lever on the left looking at it ( and the release levr access) Couldn't go any deeper either as too much height would be lost. Is that what you mean?

Also, I need a space on the left to allow the locking bar to be fitted.

.

Still trying to work out why the flying fook you need a pit to put
a bike stand in..do they not work at ground level then .


Rehards
Aj,

aj wrote:.

Still trying to work out why the flying fook you need a pit to put
a bike stand in..do they not work at ground level then .


Rehards
Aj,

It gives him an extra 8" in height when repairing his Panzer.

Simmo wrote:

aj wrote:.

Still trying to work out why the flying fook you need a pit to put
a bike stand in..do they not work at ground level then .


Rehards
Aj,

It gives him an extra 8" in height when repairing his Panzer.

How do you get extra height when its sunk into the ground. .
Kids today eh . no fekkin sence.

Retards...
Aj

Oldbull wrote:yep... lot of work gone into it, bit too much with the floor depth tho pal but coming together nicely


can remember digging a pit for a mate years ago, everyone wanted one in them days... six months later the fookin thing had filled up with water seeping in

See previous pics Mister Gloom and Despondency. Dug down a foot. 6 inch crusher run, DPM, spacers and steel mesh, then 6 inch concrete for the floor. The pit was a little deeper for crusher run and concrete. Dry as a bone.

Aj. Try not to think, its not becoming of you.

aj wrote:.

Still trying to work out why the flying fook you need a pit to put
a bike stand in..do they not work at ground level then .


Rehards
Aj,

Cos when it's not needed, its covered up and no floor space lost. Don't try and work owt out. Thick is as thick does. Always has been ampt it.!

Oldbull wrote:yep... lot of work gone into it, bit too much with the floor depth tho pal but coming together nicely


can remember digging a pit for a mate years ago, everyone wanted one in them days... six months later the fookin thing had filled up with water seeping in

did you not think that would happen without a good quality DPM?

Did you get much repeat work after that?

T.Murphy wrote:

aj wrote:.

Still trying to work out why the flying fook you need a pit to put
a bike stand in..do they not work at ground level then .


Rehards
Aj,

Cos when it's not needed, its covered up and no floor space lost. Don't try and work owt out. Thick is as thick does. Always has been ampt it.!

You trying to tell me that that ramp thing discappears under them planks.....fekinbell lad....
you could have hung the feekker on the wall ....

Completeretard
Aj

See previous pics Mister Gloom and Despondency. Dug down a foot. 6 inch crusher run, DPM, spacers and steel mesh, then 6 inch concrete for the floor. The pit was a little deeper for crusher run and concrete. Dry as a bone.

Sorry Tim I didnt mean owt by it, the one we dug was 7ft deep and he lived in a bit of a hollow.... yours looks fine, was just saying loike

six inch crusher run and then six inch of concrete is slightly over engineered, unless your planning to build a 6 storey building on it later on....

better too much than not enough for them heavy German panzas tho mate

Didnt mean to sound critical pal, my point was the over engineering is what made the hard work of it for you, but you got there in the end and made a fine job thats all that matters

Oldbull wrote:

See previous pics Mister Gloom and Despondency. Dug down a foot. 6 inch crusher run, DPM, spacers and steel mesh, then 6 inch concrete for the floor. The pit was a little deeper for crusher run and concrete. Dry as a bone.

Sorry Tim I didnt mean owt by it, the one we dug was 7ft deep and he lived in a bit of a hollow.... yours looks fine, was just saying loike

six inch crusher run and then six inch of concrete is slightly over engineered, unless your planning to build a 6 storey building on it later on....

better too much than not enough for them heavy German panzas tho mate

Didnt mean to sound critical pal, my point was the over engineering is what made the hard work of it for you, but you got there in the end and made a fine job thats all that matters

No, I know you wuz just pointing it out re over engineering . But there are
two reasons really, nah 3.

First? Garage floor 5x 5 and coupled with putting a "bike lift" pit in, took on board advice/opinion from a well respected Member, thought fek it and put 6" concrete depth rather than 4.

Secondly, due to it being an old concrete section, and wanting to put a pitched roof on instead of flat, with associated increase in weight, I wanted to see what foundations were like. Whilst they were OK they really wanted "beefing" up a bit to satisfy my imaginary or not fears, so dug deeper and underpinned all the foundations with shuttered concrete before putting the slab down. Also widened the foundations inwards a touch to accommodate a 50 mm gap for Kingspan and a single course of block work all the way round on which I have built a robust stud wall.

The reason for the studwall is two-fold. First, the uprights attached to the joists assist in tying in the wall plates and rafters together. Over engineered? Probably, but I know nowt will fall down, peace of mind and all that. Secondly, the framework provides an abundance of shelf space and storage potential.


Oh yea, and the 3rd reason? Well, belt and braces I suppose. It's a one off and for me.

The hard work wasn't over engineering...it was doing the job at the same time as I was using the garage, digging a bit out at a time, nowhere to store stuff, borrowing a dumper for the concrete that would break down with a bucket full of going off concrete, taking delivery of concrete that if I'd had any experience and nous, I'd have returned back to the plant as unsuitable cos it was going off within half an hour and trying to do it with just me and my lad. Oh how I laughed as the cement finally found its way into my hand and knuckle cracks and splits causing the most intense burning sensation since having a 3-break with someone suffering from thrush

Learned a lot on what to do and what not to do and the next concrete floor I put down will be done in a super efficient way.

However, I hope, nay, I KNOW, I will never ever do that again

Hope I haven't bored you but I need to unload all this pain I have collected.

P.S. 7 Fookin foot pit? Who's the mechanic, a Fookin Watoossi?
Seven Fookin foot? You line it with one or two layers of kitchen roll?




Fook me, seven foot.....