IXXRA......The Home Of The Superblackbird

Auto - I've just received the Hisssssssss pdf from Ramo.

PM me your email addy and I'll flirt it over - might be something useful in there for ya

well after to speaking with Taffy, it would appear even with the HISS system the ECM are a plug and play, with a tiny little bit of tinkering.....
so we will see what happens..

Auto

Email sent, Auto.

Slookin' good for tomorra then.

Had some thoughts on that - you an early riser? (OO-er, missus )

The reason bein' that if we could get it done early I'd have the rest of the day at Oulton after....

Well!! words seem puny but i cant thank D A enough, we now know that the ECM is not the root of all evil and causing problems....D A bike ran fine with the suspect ECM...thanks to Taffy for how to cope with the HISS...

So we now look to the other consensus of opinion that the culprit may be the ignition switch..even D A was surprised how my bike cuts out.

Glad I could help, Auto - it was worth the ride just for the coffee!
Hope you get it sorted soon.

Too nice for Oulton so we're out int sun stuffin' us faces!

Whats Taffy say about the fault ??? did he have any input Auto

Taffy thinks the ignition switch is at fault, but said it was wise to get the ecm checked...D A thinks the ignition is at fault having seeing how it cuts out.

No imcrease or decrease in revs...

No spluttering as if it's fuel-starved...

No warning lights...

No mis-fire...

It just stops - like it does when the ignition's switched off...

...unpredictably and with absolutely no warning whatsoever.

Kill switch... sidestand switch if not been checked

absolutely nothing it just stops, just as if you have used the killed switch or turned the ignition off, I have replaced the kill switch, side stand and clutch lever micro switches and for good measure replaced neutral sensor.....all to no avail...

Taffy chatted about some small bits inside the ignition switch are prone to fail, the only issue I can see with that is it will do it when stationary and only when the engine gets warm....

Must admit, I'd discounted the ignition switch for the same reason. Why would it need a warm engine to fail. If DA or Taffy have suggested some useful tests though, get them done first. At least the ECM is beyond suspicion and that must be a relief!

Did you say you'd tested the coolant sensor? I'm at work so no time for back-rummaging through posts!!

What was Cyclop's fault that you dorted Ramo? Same symptoms I think and after much hoo haaing a simple connection problem wasn't? Shake yasselves Ramo/Cyclops. Fekkin wakey fekkin wakey ya fekkin fekkas.

From elsewhere...

I reckon Auto will have tried these, but - just in case...

I have a 2001 CBR1100XX and it was cutting out at random times - pull the connectors on the Computer Module under the seat (2 large connectors) - clean them with electrical cleaning spray - then put some dialectric grease on the connectors, this should fix it up..

you may want to also check the ignition switch. Fire the bike up and take the key and rock it a little in the switch. Fore and aft and see if you get the cutout issue. Mine has developed a little flat spot that will every now and then show up much in the same way as you describe. I do have 96K on my bird but just a thought to check.

"Fire the bike up" means start the bike up, Auto - not the "semtex solution" that you were contemplating earlier in this thread...

Keep goin' matey - can't be far off a solution now...

I sprayed all the connector blocks with AC50, I have tried waggling the key in the ignition also ragged the wires about at the bottom of the ignition, it never missed a beat.

Max I replaced the coolant sensor, it was one of two sensors that showed up on the diagnostic check.

Seriously have you checked the crank position sensor?
costs nothing to check
It was a doddle on the bonnie (least ways it only took my mate a few minutes to check and identify)

one last thing. How often do you use the bike. could be a partially blocked fuel filter?

A coolant sensor would not cause a misfire or cause it to die, it's only there along with the MAP sensor to provide info for the ECU to fine tune the fuelling! I'm losing track of all this now but has the ignition coils and spark plug leads been swapped/changed?????? Ignition coils fail when hot the same as crank angle sensors, have the coils primary and secondary windings been metered yet?........here's a redneck vid for guidance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c

Hmmm... Crank sensor...

http://www.cbrxx.com/body-paint-electri ... forum.html

Seems to add to the fire a bit, dunnit... ?

jono49 wrote:A coolant sensor would not cause a misfire or cause it to die, it's only there along with the MAP sensor to provide info for the ECU to fine tune the fuelling! I'm losing track of all this now but has the ignition coils and spark plug leads been swapped/changed?????? Ignition coils fail when hot the same as crank angle sensors, have the coils primary and secondary windings been metered yet?

Ageed it's not likely to be a coolant sensor, Jono - but if you heard the way the bike cuts out, I reckon you'd dismiss the coils and plug leads as the culprits.

As I said earlier - it's instant - as if the main ignition/spark has been disconnected.

It's not a stuttering breakdown, as I'd expect with a coil or plug lead - the whole system stops.

Watch this, now - I'll be wrong, wunnay?

One piece of info missing is?....how soon will it restart after failing? and what happens when a re-start is tried immediately after failure? does it spin over and not start, or does it start straight away?
A crank sensor will cool down fairly quickly and allow a re-start then fail again when it reaches a certain temperature!
And when it fails it kills the ignition system as the ECU has no reference to the Crank position, this replaced the old mechanical points, and when the points closed completely there was no spark as there was no pulse, when the coil fails on the sensor it's the same! "No pulse, No spark"

Need to get back to the Original Thread.

jono49 wrote:A coolant sensor would not cause a misfire or cause it to die, it's only there along with the MAP sensor to provide info for the ECU to fine tune the fuelling! I'm losing track of all this now but has the ignition coils and spark plug leads been swapped/changed?????? Ignition coils fail when hot the same as crank angle sensors, have the coils primary and secondary windings been metered yet?........here's a redneck vid for guidance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRQ45lT2d3c

Errr... it could, it would and it did. We got the fella going again though. Lovely video

Failure of a coil is possible when it heats up. Catastrophic failure of both coils or all 4 HT leads at exactly the same temperature and moment, sufficient to cause immediate, total engine shutdown is probably as likely as all 4 spark lugs failing and cutting out similarly. Nothing's impossible, but so unlikely compared to other things

Can somebody please, please, please test the cramk angle sensors!

Tim's right. Now that everyone's awake, moved to Out Patients as is befitting the subject matter.

Right

This is the course of action I am going to take

Replace the crankshaft sensor, ..I have my eyes on one off an 05 bike, its £30 delivered small change in the bigger scope of things.

Having studying the HISS document I was forwarded and seeing how we fooled the HISS on another bike I have a sneaky feeling that it may be the culprit. On all of the components on the ignition side its the easiest item to change.

When you read how the hiss works and the time frame that it does its business it could well be the culprit.

I am also starting to wonder if we are putting too much emphasis on the temperature related issue.

On Sunday morning we swapped the ecm onto Eric's bike, Eric's ran fine. After Eric departed put mine back together, started and it ran for longer than its done for ages, the temp was up and down from 103 to 98 as the fan kicked on and off and then it cut out.

Please feel free to shoot me down in flames as I'm an engineer by trade and bloody electronics are not my strong point..

Eric the Semtex option is still on the table..

I really sympathise with you here. I am electrically inept except for really simple stuff.
I am going to be really stuffed when I have to buy my first electric motorcycle

jono49 wrote:One piece of info missing is?....how soon will it restart after failing? and what happens when a re-start is tried immediately after failure? does it spin over and not start, or does it start straight away?
A crank sensor will cool down fairly quickly and allow a re-start then fail again when it reaches a certain temperature!
And when it fails it kills the ignition system as the ECU has no reference to the Crank position, this replaced the old mechanical points, and when the points closed completely there was no spark as there was no pulse, when the coil fails on the sensor it's the same! "No pulse, No spark"

It starts up straight away and when your riding the bike it is literally tenths of a second or less, you get a very jerky ride

automatic wrote:It starts up straight away and when your riding the bike it is literally tenths of a second or less, you get a very jerky ride

Aye... starts up like nowt's 'appened!

Dunno wot this means - but it's another reply from across the watter..

Quicker test is see if there is continuity to ground from either pin. The book says to use a honda dmm adaptor for voltage check which should be .07 volts.
Don't know what adaptor is all about.

Mek of it wot yer will... at least the guy's tryin' t'elp

http://www.cbrxx.com/body-paint-electri ... forum.html