This was the first chance to use the panniers, since buying the GS in August. Had packed two grips to fit inside, but they would only just fit with the boxes expanded. This looked far too much like a wide load, so it was back inside to dump kit for packing attempt 2.
Eventually set off on Tuesday in full sun. Filled up at Gloucester, which was just enough to get me to Teebay Services on M6 (205 miles).
Being mindful of cameras, the fun started at Loch Lomond. Turned off at Tarbet, taking the Rest and be thankful A83 route to Inveraray, then the A819, A85 and A828 to my first night in Port Appin. This is a lovely setting, opposite the small isle of Lismore.
Set off for Skye the next day. Normally I just pass through touristy Fort William, stopping just for cheap juice at Morrisons. But this time I thought I would try the short road up the Glen Nevis in the mid-morning sun. In peak season you could imagine it nose to tail, but this time of year it was nearly deserted. In the three miles before it becomes a single track, there were twists and turns (with some adverse cambers!!!) and a few summits to get airborne. If that was not enough, it offers great views of the mountain, that you don't get from the town.
Rather than take the Mallaig ferry, I chose the awesome A87 over Glen Shiel to Skye bridge. Left the 87 to cut across the island to visit the Talisker Distillery on the West coast, where I met another GS couple who were also touring. Apart from breathing in the heady vapours, I didn't imbibe, but set off to tour the NE Trotternish Peninsula. As fuel was getting a little low, I cut across the mountain route from Staffin to Uig, before returning to the B&B near Broadford.
Had to
the camera before breakfast on the Thursday to catch this red sky over the Cuillins.
The 'Shepherd's Warning' tale was dispelled by what turned out to be a fantastic Autumnal day. The combination of great weather and the stunning scenery of Wester Ross made this a memorable ride. Firstly, I took the mountain pass route to Applecross, which lived up to its billing on biking sites.
Then following the little coast route, there were wonderful views across the Sound towards Raasay and then Rona, with Skye behind.
You then join the marked Wester Ross route as the magnificent mountains of Liathach and the white-topped Beinn Eighe loom up.
There was a good information point explaining the geology at the beginning of the Torridon Glen.
At Kinlochewe, there is a choice. Turn left and follow the very scenic A832 coast road. Or go right and make the most of the very fast 832 and 835 roads to Ullapool. Because the weather was so good, and the forecast the next day was wet, I pressed on all the way North to Durness, before retracing to overnight at Lochinver. This 837 and 894 route is truly worthy of all the superlatives, both in terms of dramatic scenery and pure riding enjoyment from the sweeping bends.
After waiting for the worst of the rain to pass on the Friday morning in Lochinver, I retraced my way back down the 835, but this time stopping at the Knockan Crag visitor centre. The weather cleared enough as I took the foot trail, enabling these photos.
Only picked up traffic cutting through Muir of Ord and Beauly to catch up with the A82 again going SW.
Returned home from Port Appin on Saturday. Although a bit murky with a strong cross-wind the tops of the mountains of Glen Coe were just visible.
I just cannot emphasise enough, the combination of impressive scenery and excellent riding roads for anyone contemplating a visit to this part of Scotland. Plus there is all the fresh seafood...