The crossing from Portsmouth to Santander was very smooth all the way. Although I had opted for a cheaper shared cabin, I had it to myself. There was a guy on board from ORCA, the whale charity, who was helping with spotting while crossing the Bay of Biscay. He and some other patient watchers saw some porpoises and a Cuviers beaked whale, but unfortunately I had just gone back to bed at 7am, so missed it.
There were about sixteen to twenty bikes which had been the first to be loaded. But as we were down on the bottom deck, we were the last to get off. First thing I had to do was fill with fuel. Pleasant surprise to find petrol was the equivalent of £1 per litre. During the week, it dropped below that. French price was the same as ours, so if possible, I would hang on to get back on Spanish soil to refuel.
You might find this strange with all the cheap flights and package holidays, but this was my first time in Spain. Getting onto the fast road out of the port, the first striking thing to me was all the pampas grass growing wild where we would have buddleia or brambles.
Heading East to get to the Basque region, the free motorway becomes a toll one at Bilboa. My normal instinct is to steer clear of these, but there was no real viable alternative to cover the ground quickly. But this was no boring M4, it had curves and scenery to interest. Passing through the toll barrier, I quickly stuffed the ticket under the clear plastic of my tank bag. Only a quarter of a mile further on, I was just in time to see it fly out. Traffic was light, but I was not going to take the chance of searching the carriageways for it, so parked up and walked back for another.
It was mid afternoon and really quite warm when I got to San Sebastian. This city was too big for me, so decided to head up to St Jean de Luz as I fancied staying on the coast. But because the weather was so glorious, this town was humming too, and I couldn't find suitable digs, so headed inland to the hills where the Pyrenees start. Wanted to stay at Espalette, known for producing sun dried hot peppers, but again, no room at the inn. By now I was getting a bit hot and frazzled and it was 7 pm. The next town of Cambo les Bains was less touristy, and I struck lucky at a small hotel, with a choice of restaurants nearby. It was a beautifully balmy evening as I took a short walk before returning to the hotel.
- Espelette
The next morning, my route into the mountains took me South, back into Spain, before I turned East and over my first Col towards St Jean Pied de Port, which had been an important garrison town with yet another defensive fort by Vauban. But before that, it was ( and still is ) on the route for those making a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. Just on my way out of town, I spied a couple on a heavily leaden GS Adv who had been on the ferry, so stopped and chatted about plans and what we had seen.
- St Jean Pied de Port
I picked up the small D18 that took me over the Col Bagargui, before following the best known D918 to Arudy, arriving early afternoon.
- Cloud 9
With hindsight, I should have carried on longer, completing some of the next day's schedule, but instead decided to ride into Pau. At some temporary lights a CBR1000RR ( naked Fireblade, I believe ) pulled up alongside. I let the local lad lead me the twelve miles down the sweeping D934 into town. The Chateau was quite impressive, but after that I headed back to Arudy and a cool beer. The hotel had no covered parking, so I cheekily left the
under the forecourt of the town hall. That night there was a heavy thunderstorm, so I was glad she was under cover.- Pau chateau
The rain started again at breakfast on the Friday. But I had a long day ahead travelling E over the best Cols, so had to set off and make the best of it. Using the D294 westward to regain the N134 Col du Somport road, I encountered a small horse fair in the rainy mountains. I went over the Somport in the wet and gloom, so could not see much. My new waterproof gloves were soaking wet inside because the rain had run down my sleeves. On the GS, it would have been a different story with my hands much higher. Back on the Spanish side, the rain stopped and the sun appeared. At a petrol station outside Jaca, I had coffee to thaw out. This is the town I should have got to yesterday afternoon, instead of sunning myself with a cool glass in hand.
Had I not pre-booked a B&B on the French side that evening, I would have altered my plans and followed another best route, the N260, keeping to the Spanish side and the better weather. So there are definite advantages to not booking ahead, leaving your options open. The N134 ( N330 on Spanish side) heading back N was a super road, made all the more scenic when passing lakes. Cresting the Col du Pourtalet, the rain started again, confirming the old adage that it's always wetter on the Froggy side.
Was still only wearing a T shirt under my jacket, so was cold and wet. Stopped to put on a pullover, so at least I would be warm and wet. Took a good ten minutes to get my sodden gloves back on. Did one of the best passes, the Aubisque in the gloom. By Argeles-Gazost I would have preferred to stop for the day, but still had 170 miles to do for the B&B. That's another advantage to travelling alone - if you mess up the plan, only you are inconvenienced, and you haven't got someone looking over the top of their glasses, as much as to say 'Who's the Numpty?'
Went into a café to have another warming coffee and cake for energy, and met two English guys who must have been 60, cycling these Cols. Total respect for their fitness. Fortunately, it had stopped raining, and the sun was threatening to appear when I tackled the best pass, the Tourmalet (6939 ft). So I did get to see the views from this one, but I cannot share them with you, as I could not get my camera out of my jacket with my still sodden gloves. So if you are coming to do this central section of the Pyrenees, don't do what I did by assigning two day's worth to one day of the itinerary, but allow yourselves several days, so you can pick the fine days the see the views from these passes at their best.
I still had the Col d'Aspin and about four or five minor passes to do. In all, I had done 250 miles over all these. Can't remember how long the Wrynose - Hardnott combination is, but imagine riding those repeatedly all day. By the time I rolled up in the dark at the B&B at 10 pm, I was shattered.
After a hearty breakfast, including ripe figs from the garden, I set off in the dry Nwestwards towards Carcassonne. The hills gave way to the plains as I descended and the sun shone through again. There was an enormous vegetable market in the centre ( my photo does not show the scale of it ), with other little areas set aside for honey vendors etc. Meat and fish stalls were in the covered market hall. Bought some lovely crevettes to go with some bagette and hard boiled eggs left over from breakfast. Replenished, I crossed over the river to walk around the old Cite.
- Carcassonne Cite
- Cite
- Chauteau within old Cite
All the routes I had been following so far had been uploaded to the Zumo at home. But I decided not to use the one that took me to Narbonne then down the coast to Perpignan. Instead I just cut across country as best I could using the map. So glad I did, as there were some super twisty roads running through limestone gorges, and small scrub covered hills, with pockets of vineyards dotted about in the calcareous soil.
- Limestone gorge
- Corbieres
- Corbieres
- Corbieres
It was very warm again, and the vandage or grape harvesting was well underway. These are the Corbieres and Fitou wines that we shall be drinking next year. Just before Fitou, I had my first sight of the Mediterranean from the top of the hill.
- First view of Med
Unfortunately did not get to dip my toe in the water, but stopped to see an old fortress at Salses le Chateau. Riding down the coast road there was a hell of a side wind, which turned into a head wind as I turned westwards at Perpignan to head for the Pyrenees again on the N116. Again, great riding as the road climbed.
- Salses chateau
- Salses chateau
This Saturday night's accommodation was the second and last of the pre-booked, and was in a chalet type house in the ski resort of Bolquere? Think I remember from the Zumo that it was at about 5,500 feet. The striking feature in the large dining room was a large red fireplace and chimney in the style of an Easter Island head. Met up with an Irish guy, Stephen, from the GS forum. Our itineraries were quite different, and he was mainly camping on this trip, but he enjoyed the home cooking so much here, he decided to stay another night.
There was a frost on the ground in the morning, but the
started first time. The D116 dropped down to Bourg Madame with some fantastic long bends. In the distance, the snow topped highest summits of the Pyrenees could be seen. - Leaving Bolquere
Then joined the famous N260 road. This western section through to Sort turned out to be the more technical and spectacular part. From Campo to Ainsa, it became very fast and flowing. From Boltana through Biescas to Jaca it was still better than say our A44 to Rhyadar.
- N260
- N260 more
- N260 even more
- N260 picnic spot
.......please continue to the Picos de Europa thread......
Chris
Oct 2010
