Made it all the way to Pamplona, where I found a simple hotel or hostel as they are known, in the old part of town. I have never done this before, but the 'Bird had to stay locked up out on the street in the bike park. Checked her before going to bed, and fortunately she was still OK in the morning. Phew.
Explored the old city including the largest bull ring in Spain, the cathedral and citadel.
- Pamplona
- Pamplona citadel
Then headed out of town for Vitoria. But instead of taking the main direct route, I cut cross country on some marvellous climbing and twisty roads. This is where I saw my first eagles soaring above a rock crest. There was a very fast section round the lake before Reinosa, but the best section was still to come between Aguilar de Campoo and Potes, starting off wide with flowing bends, becoming narrower and twistier. Encountered six loose horses and a goat as I descended the CL626.
Quickly found a hostel on the outskirts of Potes, where the owner offered me undercover parking. Walked into town for a meal at one of the many restaurants.
- Potes
Tuesday was my last full day, and the one set aside to tour the Picos de Europa. I headed S on the 621 with the scenery getting better and better with the morning sun highlighting the sheer white peeks. Turned off right at Portilla de la Reina, ascending on a mountain road with brilliant views. There was a track at the top off to the right leading to the Mirador or panorama at over 6000ft. It was then a drop down to Posada de Valdeon.
- Picos1
- Picos2
- Picos3
- Picos4
- Picos5
- Picos6
- Picos7
- Picos 8
On reaching the 625, I decided to run S to Riano to catch up on the bit that I missed by cutting through the mountains. Very glad that I did as it was a superb piece of road with wide sweeping bends, and the scenery just got more stunning with the vast lake in the foreground. Had a quick bite, then it was back up that lovely road.
- Riano
- Riano 2
The NW corner of the region was not so mountainous, but they appeared again when approaching Panes at the NE corner. Turned S again on the 621 to bring me back full circle. The section from La Hermida to Potes was a very narrow and steep limestone gorge. I had taken my luggage with me in case I stumbled across a better inn, but I had not, so returned to the same hostel. Shame, as it would have been even better fun without the panniers.
Sadly the adventure was coming to an end. I had a half day ahead before catching the ferry. Retraced my steps through the gorge in the morning light to Hermida, where I took a right up and over a mountain and away from the Picos.
- Gorge near Hermida
- Last look back at the Picos
Descending towards Puentenansa, farmers were gathering their cattle herds off the mountain. When I eventually got to town it was clear why. It was the big Autumn market, and the traffic was at a standstill. A Spanish traffic cop directing, gestured to me about which way I wanted to go, and waved me through. Heading away from town on the main road seemed to be fine, but then there were another two large herds walking in, with a long queue of cars behind. I am sure it used to be done in the past, but imagine the chaos on the A40 now if farmers were to drive their cattle into Abergavenny, and you will get the picture. I did not get a chance to compose my shot of these large grey beasts with long horns.
- Coming off the mountains
- ...to market
Then it was back on the fast roads to Santander, with a deviation beforehand in search of a beach and a paella, preferably both together. Thought I had found the perfect spot, but although it was noon, they didn't start serving till two! So I found a restaurant opposite the ferry port.
Waiting at the terminal, after filling with fuel of course, got talking to a gixxer guy who had been on organised circuit days at Almeria. Blow me if we weren't assigned the same cabin, so I had some good company on the way back.
- Safely stowed
So what did I think of my first trip to Spain? In a word - fantastic. It had made a very favourable impression on me - food, buildings and countryside. But above all, the roads were brilliant - generally a good even surface. Came across many instances where they were widening and resurfacing even the smallest mountain roads. Good to see that the VAT we all pay in England is being used so well. Get out of town, and the traffic is really light. I only chose a handful of roads, but look at a map of Northern Spain, and with all the hill and mountain terrain, there must be hundreds forming a riding paradise. And in the evening, when watching the weather forecast, you really do see sun symbols all over the country. Don't think the girl actually said "scorchio" though - that would be earlier in the year.
Was I glad that I had taken the 'Bird in preference to the GS? Yes, but I probably had not gone significantly much faster. On the mountain roads with wild horses, donkeys, cattle and cyclists just round the hairpin bends, there was only one safe speed anyway. I did develop a rather stiff neck towards the end of the day from gazing up at the scenery, when the GS position is better suited for that type of touring. Maybe the
would be ideal for a tour looking for mushrooms on the verges.For anyone using Santander to get to Southern Spain or even Morocco, I would say give yourselves a fine day to see the Picos de Europa, they are definitely worth it. I enjoyed them as much, if not more than the Pyrenees.
After a week, my desire for gradients and bends was properly sated. So Smilely, if you are planning a tour of Lincolnshire, put my name down.
I invite you to view many more photos in a slideshow at http://s342.photobucket.com/albums/o417/XXtremist_photos/Pyrenees%20and%20Picos%20Sept%202010/?action=view¤t=802bb483.pbw
Chris
Oct 2010
